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Istria and its People


"Our ability to reach unity in diversity will
be the  beauty and test of our civilization."

Mahatma Gandhi

The land called Istria is a region of Europe that lies across the bay from Venice at the head of the Adriatic Sea and gently tucked between the Gulf of Trieste and Bay of Kvarner. It consists of the largest peninsula in the Adriatic and a collection of islands caressing it, likewise the largest in the Adriatic.

Istria is an unique and enchanted place that has welcomed visitors and settlers from other parts of the world for as long as we have recorded history. Recent archeological excavations, however, reveal that it is an ancient land with traces of human existence during the Bronze Age and vital signs of life going even further back to the age of the dinosaurs.

When did modern civilization begin in this misty and mysterious land that is nestled at the foothills of the Julian Alps and cradled by the azure waters of the Adriatic Sea? In Šandalja (Sandalia), near Pula (Pola), osteological remains were discovered of a fossil man possibly dating back to the 12-20th century B.C.! Some writers claim that Pula, considered to be Istria's most ancient city, was founded by the Colchians, and others believe it was founded by Greek colonists who came from Istrus or Istropolis at the southern mouth of the Ister (now known as the Danube) River, who conferred on this territory the name of their native country, Istria. On the shores of the Black Sea are the archeological remains of a Histria/Istria, a Greek colony or polis (πολις, city) in what is now part of Romania. Around 30 A.D., it became a Roman town even before the Adriatic's Istria. An invasion of the Avars and the Slavs in the 7th century A.D. almost entirely destroyed the fortress, and its people dispersed. Perhaps it is only a coincidence, perhaps not, that in the Adriatic Sea Istria there are still people who speak an ancient Roman[ian] tongue and with their origins not recorded, yet are continuously being speculated...

What little is known for certain of Istria's early history is that the Histri, an Indo-European people who were kindred to the Veneti and Liburni, founded a colony here around the 11th century B.C. They were mentioned for the first time in the 6th century B.C. by Hecataeus of Miletus (560-490) in his Tour Round the World where he described them as "a people in the Ionic Bay" (i.e. the Adriatic). Claiming that they were pirates, the Romans initiated the first war with the Histri in 221 B.C. In 177 B.C., the Roman consul C.Clodius Pulcher subjugated them after a two-year seige. A Roman colony was then established in place of the Histri's around 45 B.C. and which became known as part of Venetia et Histriæ. The Roman rulers were then followed by the Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Avars, Langobards, Slavs, Franks, Venetians, Genoese, Romanians, Magyars and Austrians, and in the last century by Italians, Serbs and now Croats and Slovenes. Even Attila's Huns skirted around the peninsula and Napoleon Bonaparte's French monarchy briefly ruled Istria, their subjects thereby blending into the complex fabric of this uniquely historic and beautiful place. 

Perhaps it is ironic as well as symbolic that a large portion of Istria's soil is a rich red that evokes the color of the human blood that soaked into it through the millennia; another is a stark gray-white that is arid like the ashes of its scattered dead; while the balance is allegorically black like the souls of the many plunderers and conquerors who have stripped this land of its most precious resource, its mosaic of sturdy people. A land mass will take millions of years to evolve while a cultural heritage requires only centuries. Tragically, either or both can be instantaneously destroyed by a flash of lightning, an earthquake, the plagues, or repeated human invasions!

Indeed, some people came to Istria to plunder or rule, some to hide or flee from oppressors, and still others have come  simply to enjoy the pastoral settings. In his memoirs, the notorious Venetian Giacomo Girolamo Casanova (1725-1798) describes two visits that he made to Istria and how he made love in Vrsar (Orsera). In contrast, philosophers, saints, and hermits spawned in Istria a sanctuary from the mundane - even a false messiah! - while Roman poets and Renaissance troubadours praised Istria in their verses. One of them, Marcus Valerius Martialis (c. 43-117 B.C.), was a Spaniard who later gained fame as a Roman poet, satirist, and master of the epigram. Better known as Martial (Italian: Marziale), he wrote: "Uncto Corduba laetior Venafro / Histra nec minus absolute testa." (English: Oh, city of Còrdoba, you who are more fertile than the city of Venafro famous for its oil, and as perfect as an Istrian amphora; Italiano: O città di Cordova, tu che sei più ricca della città di Venefro famosa per il suo olio, e non sie meno perfetta di un'anfora istriana; and Hrvatski: Kordobo, koja si plodnija od Vinafre poznatoj po ulju, a nisi ni manje savrsena od istrarske amfore".)

A Tuscan political figure and legendary poet named Dante Alighieri (1265-1321) had visited Istria and touched upon Pula (Pola), the symbolic capital of Istria, in his guided tour through allegorical Hell in his masterpiece, The Divine Comedy [introduction]. Almost six centuries later, Jules Verne (1828-1905), a Frenchman, led his own lyrical hero, Mathias Sandorf, through the caves and subterranean streams of Istria in a more realistic rendition of the underworld even though it is believed that he personally never set foot there. Then there was Istrian-born Giuseppe Tartini (1692-1770) who transcribed the famous Devil's Sonata that he had heard in a dream. Perhaps what he actually echoed was the haunting refrain of the legendary Adriatic winds (bora, sirocco, and others) that vibrated through the breathtaking peaks and valleys of his childhood homeland. Almost two centuries later, James Joyce (1882-1941), a tempestuous Irish writer and Nobel prize winner, is reported to have conceived the turbulent protagonist of his novel Ulysses during his four months' stay in Pula (Pola) in 1904-5 while he was there to teach English to Austro-Hungarian officers at the Berlitz School. From there, he transferred to Trieste, the second of the three seaport cities that form the "Istrian triangle". Sir Richard Burton (1821-90), a British adventurer, writer and diplomat, who spent many years and died in Trieste, had visited and wrote about Istria. And who can forget the fiery Fiorello La Guardia (1882-1947), the greatest Mayor that the City of New York has ever had - and, indeed, the most famous mayor in United States history - and affectionately known as the "little flower", himself had multiple personal and professional ties to Istria. In fact, his father, Achille LaGuardia (1849-1904), famous in his own right, is buried in Koper (Capodistria), Istria.

After being subjugated by five different rulers in the 20th century, Istria is today undemocratically subdivided by three nations: Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. Despite this, abundant traces of her past civilizations remain, including the fabric left behind by people who lived in Istria for centuries but who have been scattered all over the world in the 20th century by a series of conflicts and tragic events with many consequences of two world wars and the breakup of Yugoslavia. Multi-ethnic and multi-lingual, the Istrian people are part of a rich and colorful tapestry which some would further tear apart by pulling out and segregating its individual silken threads - that is, analyze Istrians in two-dimensional and mono-ethnic "scientific" or "clinical" ways that are neither an accurate nor comprehensive representation of the Istrian people, those living in Istria or those who are dispersed around the world. Our internet domain does not subscribe to the polarization of our Istrian family in such ways and treats all Istrians as equals, irrespective of their real or proclaimed ethnicity, the language(s) they speak, where they live, their socio-economic background, or their spiritual and political philosophies.

Today, kings, popes, statesmen, scientists, artists, writers, celebrities of the stage, screen, and sports arenas and a cornocopia of other casual visitors from around the world continue flocking to this enigmatic place, along with an ever flowing outflux/influx of immigrants. Why have there been so many rulers and high-profile public visitors in Istria? Perhaps because Istria is strategically placed at the heart and soul of the civilized world and oftentimes is called the "navel of Europe". Those who genuinely love this land, however, believe that the peninsula is shaped more like a heart!

Istria is indeed a heartland and a lifeline set down between the wealthy sophisticated West and the distant disquieting East on the road to the Orient. It lies at the crossroad of the cold northern lands pounded by frigid winds that bear down their winter frost and the southern Mediterranean lands whose intense sun casts a sultry summer shadow. Its rocky coast and placid hills embrace Nature's forces to create unspoiled pine forests, clear waters and sparkling beaches, an abundance of autochthonous animals (wild and domestic), exotic native flowers, the magical white truffle and other wild edibles, aromatic herbs, olives and a cornocopia of fruit (figs, plums, peaches, berries, etc.), and nurture the grapes that produce strong wines and even stronger tastes. Likewise, the land and sea have hardened the human hands that have cast the fisherman's woven nets and tilled the peasant's toughened soil. Hand in hand, the people and land of Istria have survived a long history in which many have tried to dominate them but none has ever fully succeeded.

The term "Istrian" is not just a label for a beautiful land and the people living in it at any frozen moment in time. Rather, it embraces both the people who were born and/or live in Istria today and its native inhabitants of many centuries who were forceably dispersed to countries around the world in what is now known as the Istrian Diaspora. The land called Istria has somehow endured all the hardships and remains a steadfast siren, an enchanting echo of ancient Greece, that beckons the Istrian people who are living far away to return home, despite the present rulers who would deny them the free and democratic right to do so without penalty or prejudice.

Even casual visitors who are harkened to this magical place or who make friends with its peoples become spellbound by Istria's intrinsic beauty - a charming blend of East and West - which has conjoined man to the land and thereby created both an unique physical setting and a colorful tapestry of peoples and cultures. Such a combined and ever-evolving presence is an essence that is mirrored nowhere else in the world!

Our goal in these internet pages is to explore Istria and its people and to celebrate the many colors of the rainbow that blend and continue to radiate on a land that is slowly regaining its mythological and legendary vitality. We do so through the richness of a common heritage that bonds the Istrian people all over the world to one another through a collective memory: the "homing instinct." More importantly, our aim is to reveal the truths of the past and the realities of the present of our haunting homeland so that we may reconnect the broken links in our family chain and preserve the rich legacy of Istria for the next and later generations to come who are, after all, our great hope for the future!

We do not forget, however, that this internet domain is only a place where we assemble virtually in an echo of love and respect for our elders and ancestors who congregated physically in the old town squares that we so heartily miss today. We meet here only in a spirit of good will and friendship and shall allow no violence or aggression, not even verbal. As such, we invite you into our home and bid you to sit with us in front of our Istrian hearth where we shall not only share with you our gastronomical delights, but also open up our hearts and minds to tell you what we recall of the natural riches and mixed blessings of our multi-ethnic and multi-lingual Istrian heritage.

Marisa Ciceran

RICORDI

No!  Istria is not a virtual space!

Istria is the shriek of the seagull in the sunset,
the whisper of the wind thru the fragrance of the towering pines,

the ironic splashing of the Adriatic
on the roughness of the hidden coves.

Istria is the the greenish sunlight filtering
through the grapevine leaves,

the harsh blow of the nordic bora shaking
the batane in the harbour,

the sleepy heaviness of the hot summer afternoon  relieved by the coolness of the evening sea breeze.

Istria is the carminion of the red soil bleeding its eternal cry for PEACE.

Istria was my HOME... May those who still live there enjoy her beauty and her intrinsic reality.

No!  Istria non è uno spazio virtuale!

Istria è lo strillo del gabbiano nel tramonto,
il sussurro del vento tra la fragranza  dei pini torreggianti,

lo sciacquio ironico dell’Adriatico sugli
scogli ruvidi delle insenature nascoste.

Istria è la luce verdognola che filtra
attraverso le foglie dei vigneti,

la spinta crudele della bora del nord che scompiglia le batane nel porto,

la pesantezza dormigliosa di un bruciante pomeriggio estivo riscossa dalla freschezza della brezza marina di ogni sera.

Istria è il carminio della terra rossigna che sanguina la sua eterna richiesta di PACE.

Istria era la mia CASA... Possano coloro che ancora vivono lì godere la sua bellezza e la sua intrinseca realtà.

Copyright © 1997 Franco G. Aitala (1932-2005)

Playing in the background: Pachelbel's Canon
(courtesy of: http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/Strasse/1232/)

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This page compliments of Marisa Ciceran 

Created: Wednesday, August 11, 1999; Last updated: Wednesday, January 07, 2009
Copyright © 1998 IstriaNet.org, USA