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Panoramic view of the
town of Cres on the Island of Cres |
Cres (Cherso) Island
Geology
The Cres-Lošinj (Cherso-Lussino) group of
islands, situated in the Kvarner (Quarnero) Gulf, is the largest group in
the Adriatic. It is made up of 36 islands, islets and reefs.
The cause underlying the formation and
current appearance of the islands of the Kvarner was the transgression of
the Adriatic Sea in the last 12-6 thousand years.
Some 20-30 thousand years ago the whole
Kvarner underwent elevation, including northern Dalmatia and the Italian
coast of the Adriatic. With the melting of the icebergs, at the end of the
Ice Age, there was a rise in the level of the Adriatic Sea of about 100
meters, and the mountains and hills of the mainland became islands, the
higher hills became smaller islands and the lower hills became underwater
reefs and rocks.
Cres and Lošinj, with their neighboring
islands and islets, are a continuation of the Cicarija (Ciceria) mountain
range, that is, of its southern extension - Učka (Monte Maggiore). The
extension of the highest part of the Učka range can be connected with the
range to the north of Cres (Sis - 638 meters). The southern part of the Učka
range (Sisol - 833 meters), via the cape of Masnjak [Punta del Gatto], extends to the cape of Pernat
into the chain of hills west of the Vrana Lake (Helm - 483 meters),
and further south to Lošinj, via Osorscica (Mount Osor - Televrina - 588
meters), to finally end on the island of Ilovik . The extension of the hilly
formation south of Labin is breifly suggested by the islands of Unije and
Srakane (N. Strazicic, 1975).
Chalk limestone and dolomite of very diverse
content and resistance is dominant in the geological composition of the
islands. This played an essential role in the forming of the present relief.
Thus a more compact and purer limestone, recognizable by its craggy and
rugged rock, is located on the island of Cres near Beli, in Lubenice, and on
the island of Lošinj, in the mountain mass of Osorscica. The locations of
impure limestone, mixed with dolomite, is where valleys were formed due to
erosion. Examples of this are the valleys where the town of Cres or the
settlement of Martinscica are located. Dolomites in which the greatest
breakdown and erosion is taking place are located in the entire area
surrounding Vrana Lake as well the entire stretch tot the southeastern point
of the island of Cres. Here the coastline is very indented and forms fjords
which deeply cut into the land, for example, the points of St. Dumjan and
Kolorat or the deeply indented Jadriscica Bay. This phenomenon can also be
seen around the port of Mali Lošinj.
Cres (Cherso) is an island in the Kvarner (Quarnero) Gulf
off the coast of Istria, from which it is separated by the
channel of Vela vrata (Farasina), and
it is below the
Bay of Rijeka (Fiume). In the south, a
canal separates Cres
from the island of Lošinj (Lussino), and they are connected by a turn
bridge over the channel which was first made during Roman times and was
revived in the 16th century.
Both islands are structurally part of the limestone plateau of Istria.
Cres
is an elongated island about 40 miles long, 14 to 7 miles wide, and has an area of 150 sq. miles. It is connected with the island of Lošinj
(Lussin), lying on the S.W. by a turn bridge over
the small channel of Osor (Ossero). To the east, the Canale di Mezzo (Canal in the Middle)
separates it from the island of Krk (Veglia). These three islands are the
principal islands of the Kvarner group.
It is traversed by a range of mountains, which attain in the peak of Syss an altitude of 2,090 feet and form natural terraces, planted with vines and
olive
trees, specially in the middle and southern parts of the
island. The northern part is covered with bushes of laurel and mastic, but
there are scarcely any large trees. There are no surface streams on the
island and there is a scarcity of springs. Thus, the
houses are generally furnished with
cisterns which
capture rainwater. In the centre of the island is a large freshwater lake
called Vransko (Vrana) or Crow's Lake (5.75 sq. km.), situated at an altitude of 40 feet above
sea level and its bottom lying 68 m. below sea level. It is 31 miles long, one mile wide and 184 feet deep. This lake is
in all probability fed by subterranean sources. It contains about
200
million cubic metres of water and supplies both Cres and
Lošinj. Numerous
submarine freshwater sources
(vrulje) spring up along the shores of the island.
The single road on the island is
about 29 square miles (75 square km) in area and
runs the entire length of the Island which has a total area
of 156 sq. mi. (404.33 sq. km.). Its highest peak is Gorice (750
m). In general, Cres has a poorly indented coastline, major indentations
being the Bay of Koromafina on the east coast, and Creska Luka
[ ], Valun (Vallone),
Martinšćica (S. Martino) and Ustrine on the west coast. Off the west coast
are the islets of
Zaglav and Zeša and a group of reefs called Visoki; the islets off the
southeast coast are called Trstenik and Cutin, and the islet off the
northeast coast is called Plavnik.
The southern portion of Cres Island is more
populated than the north and sees a milder climate because it is more
protected from the
bora
(bura), the
north-easterly winds which race across the north side of the island. The
western side of the island is warmer and more humid than the eastern also
because of the
bora. In 1900, it had a
population of 8,274.
The north portion of the island is
home to a colony of protected griffin vultures, as well as eagles, hawks,
buzzards, and many other species. Cres is well known for the large number of
birds that nest on the island.
Considerable areas of woodland (oak,
hornbeam, and pine) have been preserved in the northern part of the island,
while in the southern part woods can be found only here and there; the area
cast of Vransko Jezero contains large areas of pine woods. Most of the
settlements are in the west of the island, the eastern and central parts
being sparsely populated.
The chief town on the island is the
small town of Cres (Cherso), situated on the west coast, which possesses a good harbour and is
provided with a shipwright's wharf. It is the only settlement on the
island with the status of a city. The inhabitants of the island are chiefly occupied with
farming (olives,
vines, vegetables). Important industries are shipping,
fishing and fish processing (at Cres and Martinšćica). Stone of good quality
is quarried near Osor. The main communication line in the interior is a road
which runs the whole length of the island and serves all its settlements. It
leads from Porozina in the north to Osor in the south, continuing towards
Lošinj. Ferry boat services from Porozina link the island with
Rabac and
Rijeka. The recently developed [1960s?]
water-supply system, electric light and improved communications attract
increasing numbers of tourists to the island.
Brief History
The island of Cres has been inhabited since the
Neolithic period, as
evidenced by the cave
dwelling at Punta Križa. Earlier earthworks from the
Bronze Age are surrounded by circular stone walls and stand on the less
accessible peaks. From the Iron Age date the
hillforts (castellieri) with a
rectangular ground plan (Beli, Lubenice and Ustrine), where burial places
with tumuli have been found.
Cres also has Roman ruins, a Renaissance clock tower, a city loggia, and a
15–16th century church.
The oldest known inhabitants of Cres were Illyrian Liburnians. Ancient
Greek sources used for the islands of Cres and Lošinj the common name Apsirtides, which is
associated with the legend of the
Argonauts. Ancient sources mention the settlements of Krepsa
(Cres) and Apsoros (Osor). During the reign of the Emperor Augustus, Cres
came under Roman rule. After the fall of the Western Empire it became part
of the Byzantine possessions in the Adriatic, and in the early Middle Ages
it was gradually settled by Slavs.
The oldest Southern Slav monument written in
Glagolitic letters is
the famous "Valun Inscription" (Valunska ploča) dating
probably from the 9th century. In the 10th century, Cres was for a time part
of the Croatian state.
Following the fall of the
Roman Empire, Cres was part of the Byzantine Empire until 998 A.D.
From 1000 to 1358 it was a Venetian possession, to come subsequently
under Austro-Hungarian rule, and then again (from 1409 until 1797) under
Venice and during which period the political and administrative center of
the island moved from Osor to Cres.
Subsequent rulers were Austria, France (Napoleon), Austria again
(1814–1921) - during which time Cres, Krk and Lošinj
formed the administrative district of Lussin in the Austrian crownland of Istria.
In the 20th centurz its rulers were
Italy
(officially 1920–47, effectively 1918-43). Yugoslavia (1947–92), and since the
dissolution of Yugoslavia it has been
part of the Republic of Croatia.
The main communities on the Island of Cres are the towns of Cres, Osor,
Martinšćica and Valun. Its other towns are Beli, Lubenice, Pernat
and Punta Križa.
Sources:
- Text - The Yugoslav Coast, Guide and Atlas,
Jugoslavenski Leksikografski Zavod, Zagreb (1972)
- 1911 Encyclopaedia Britannica.
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